any tourist
destinations claim to make dreams come true, but some people coming
to Thailand leave after realizing their ultimate dream - a change of
sex.
Thailand has gained renown as a Mecca for all forms of cosmetic
surgery. Besides being relatively inexpensive when compared to the
West, the nation has many doctors with world-class credentials in
the field of sex reassignment.
Dr. Preecha Tiewtranon, president of the Society of Plastic and
Reconstructive Surgery of Thailand, is one of the "deans" of the
Thai sex change business. He started performing the operations 25
years ago after stints at John Hopkins and Stanford in the U.S.
He has built a formidable reputation, not only medically, but
aesthetically as well. The Internet abounds with web pages singing
his praises and offering step-by-step advice on coming to Bangkok
for the operation.
"Most Asian doctors have very small and delicate hands,"
Dr. Preecha comments, "and they also are very careful to consult
with the patient so that results come first." Thai doctors
clearly relish their reputation as being as much artisans as
surgeons.
When not in the operating room, Dr. Preecha teaches his
techniques to medical students at prestigious Chulalongkorn
University. His workshops were conceived of as a way to bring
foreign currency into the country and enhance the standing of Thai
surgeons in the field. His
former students now have thriving sex
reassignment practices in the regional cities of Pattaya, Phuket,
and Chiang Mai.
Dr. Preecha performs the operations three times a week on
foreigners while his assistant handles about the same number of
Thais. It is not surprising that foreigners have flocked here for
care. While Thailand is not a place where transsexuals go unnoticed
or are never condemned, different lifestyles are certainly more
accepted and visible than in the West.
Transsexuals are often featured in newspapers and on television.
Flamboyant cabaret shows featuring female impersonators are in every
large city. The Thai public has an intense interest for all news
concerning transsexuals. When a suitably ironic story comes along, a
media circus can result.
One such media event was the coverage of Prinya Kiatbusaba,
better known by his nickname, Nong Tum.
Nong Tum, a transvestite boxer, always entered the ring in full
makeup. He eventually became a staple of the "Strange News"-type
columns in the Western press that report on the "wacky things" that
happen in foreign countries. Once Nong Tum retired from boxing to
pursue a career in singing, the irony was gone and he vanished from
the international press.
Audience acceptance of a gay-themed film in 1999 also
demonstrated prevailing attitudes. Satree Lex (Iron Ladies)
is the true story of a volleyball team composed mainly of gay men
that won the national championships in 1996. It chronicled the
trials and tribulations of being gay and the roadblocks the team
faced in spite of their volleyball skills.
Crowds flocked to it, making it a nationwide blockbuster.
In
official circles, there is some trepidation about how Thai
transsexuals are viewed by the rest of the world. Thais go to great
lengths to avoid being judged, and feel quite embarrassed when they
are - so gaudy female impersonators are often not the image some in
Thailand want to project abroad.
Television stations have been asked to limit the number of
effeminate men they show on TV so as to not unduly influence young
people. And those who permanently change their sex face other
burdens - changing one's sex legally (as on official documents) is
still not permitted.
At his Chollada Clinic, Dr. Preecha remains very busy - after
performing nearly 1500 operations, Dr. Preecha's fame continues to
spread. "Many patients who come to me are very desperate,"
Dr. Preecha says. "They had bad results elsewhere and want a
competent plastic surgeon. I can help them."