hopping malls, tycoons' estates, multinational factories, even the US Embassy in Bangkok all have one thing in common--spirit houses. Small wooden or stone structures that sit on pedestals outside most homes and businesses, their purpose is to give the spirits that reside on the land a place to dwell. They are often lit from within and sometimes include little figurines, which are intended as servants for the resident spirit.

Each morning, employees arriving for work pay their respects to the spirit house by gently putting their hands together in front of their face—the Thai wai. Thais also wai to the spirit house when they leave at the end of the day. Here, the wai is a gesture of deference as the individual makes a wish for the spirit to protect their home or ensure safety at the workplace. The spirit houses provide punctuation in the rhythm of life, as expressed by the serene wai – one to mark each entrance and exit, and beginning and ending of the day.

The custom of spirit houses is a unique blend of animist and Brahmin traditions. Dr. Siraporn Nathalang, Associate Professor at the Faculty of Arts at Chulalongkorn University, explains that "the belief in spirit is animism, and the belief in the 'lord of the land' or 'the spirit who protects the land' is probably indigenous Thai." These practices have become closely associated with Brahmin shrines (shrines to various Hindu deities) and the inauguration of new spirit houses is presided over by Brahmin priests.

Despite its ancient roots, this is one tradition that has been strengthened rather than weakened by modern times. The use of spirit houses has become even more pronounced as people move from villages to gather in impersonal urban cities.

"You won't find an individual spirit house for each individual house in the rural areas," Dr. Nathalang continues. "Traditionally the spirit who protects the surroundings tends to be for the whole village as in [spirit houses called] pee boothah ("grandfather from both sides of the family") in the northeast of Thailand."

"This tradition has become even more popular with the emergence of urban life. Now that people live in cities, life is more individual, so people now have a spirit house for their specific house instead of a communal spirit house for the village. Maybe people don't feel secure enough and thus have the spirit house on their own property."

Before the official opening of any new building, a spirit house must be installed. A Brahmin priest performs a ceremony to invite the spirit to take up residence and special offerings are presented. A pig's head, with what looks like a smile on its face, is a typical offering, along with rice wrapped in banana leaves, a hardboiled egg, a coconut, bananas, and other fruits.

Once spirit houses were constructed of teak, but today, concrete and glass spirit houses are often seen in front of concrete and glass skyscrapers. And while traditional spirit houses resembled traditional Thai wooden houses, many now resemble miniature Thai Buddhist temples. Some are piled high with heaps of flower garlands and food offered to appease the spirits. A bottle of orange or grape "Fanta" with a straw in it is also a common offering.

Spirit houses should not be confused with Brahmin shrines, such as the world-famous Erawan Shrine outside Bangkok's Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel. These shrines look like spirit houses, are given the same types of offerings, and are common outside of major buildings around Bangkok, but inside they have statues of deities such as the Hindu god Brahma (Phra Pah Poom). In addition to honoring the deity, these shrines are used for wish fulfillment, e.g. by students seeking to pass college entrance exams or women seeking to get pregnant.

Modern spirit houses are yet another reflection of the Thai quest for harmony--not merely with their surroundings but with the various influences that shape their culture. Perhaps only Thais could have created and embraced this eclectic mix of religions and beliefs - their individualism and broadmindedness is evident in the various ways they honor the spirits and gods that have been bestowed upon them by history.

Like to print or read without pictures?
Click here!

Links